2 .Types of denim fabrics

At present, the common denim fabrics mainly include high-quality fabrics such as elastic, non elastic, bamboo knots, non bamboo knots, hemp cotton, mercerized, coated, etc.

Some people also categorize various types of denim fabrics, including regular denim, combed denim, polyester cotton denim, stretch denim, slub denim, ring spun denim, gold and silver colored stripes, linen cotton denim, and more.

How to distinguish different types of denim?

Firstly, according to the thickness of the denim, it is divided into 4.5A, 6A, 8A, 10A, 11A, 12A, 13.5A, 14.5A, etc.

4.5A is very thin and commonly used as a summer women’s tank top, sleeveless shirt; 14.5 An is already very thick and can be used to make men’s cotton jackets and jackets for winter; And most of the jeans we often wear range from 8A to 12A.

In terms of the types of denim fabrics, they can be divided into plain, twill, herringbone, interwoven, bamboo, dark, and flocked denim… In terms of composition, denim is divided into combed and plain combed, with 100% cotton, elastic (Lycra), cotton linen blend, and Tencel

3. Technological characteristics of denim fabric

How to sew a denim garment is also the key to designing denim clothing:

Car lines: Most of them are 2-point single side double exposed lines, as well as 2-point single exposed lines and 2-point double side double exposed lines. The color of the car lines is generally earthy yellow (such as collision lines), and there are also color matching lines. Please note that it is the fabric color line after washing. Special craft lines such as zigzag lines. Bold hand embroidered thread. Date beating.

Ingredients: Most cowboys use H-shaped buttons, four button buttons, bumpers, corns, leather tags, metal zippers, etc.

Marks: including main marks, size marks, washing marks, flag marks, side marks, etc

In the past two years, some big brands have launched 3D cutting, adding more pleats or an extra face at the knees to enhance the mobility of jeans… The cutting of denim suits can reflect the skills of a stylist, especially when using high elasticity, it is difficult to make the sleeves flat, wrinkle free, and have a beautiful appearance!

4. Decorative craftsmanship of denim

In the past two years, the trend of denim has been different from before. In addition to emphasizing the design changes of washing water, there is also a great emphasis on the decoration process of denim:

Denim rough edges, cut the legs and body of the jeans into tattered pieces with scissors, and add special thread; Many big brands also do the same

Adding machine embroidery, including pattern and flower design for computer embroidery

Hot drill, this type of drill is very popular in the Russian market

Patch embroidery, hand embroidery, bead embroidery, very skillful design

Adhesive printing: However, be careful as it may feel hard to the touch and may cause the pattern to fall off easily when washed

Laser: Burns off all colors of the fabric, revealing the colors of the fabric itself, with a rendering effect.

Cowboys can also be paired with different fabrics, such as wool, faux leather, corduroy, thick knit (fleece, hoodie), etc; And there are many styles that denim can make, including five bag jeans, denim shirts, denim jackets, skirts, coats, and so on, which also reflect creativity and talent.

5. Washing Methods for Cowboys

General washing

Ordinary washing, changing the familiar washing method to mechanization, with a water temperature of around 60-90 ° C, adding a certain amount of detergent, and after about 15 minutes of ordinary washing, adding softener to clean water can make the fabric softer, more comfortable, and visually more natural and clean.

STONE WASH

Stone washing refers to adding a certain size of pumice to the washing water to polish the pumice and clothes. The water level in the polishing tank is carried out at a low level where the clothes are completely soaked, so that the pumice can come into good contact with the clothes. Yellow stone, white stone, AAA stone, artificial stone, rubber ball, etc. can be used for washing to achieve different washing effects. After washing, the fabric surface will appear gray and old, and there will be slight to severe damage to the clothes.

ENZYME WASH

Enzymes are a type of cellulase that can degrade the fiber structure at a certain pH value and temperature, allowing the fabric to fade and shed hair mildly (producing a “peach peel” effect), and achieve a long-lasting softening effect. Stones can be used in combination or as substitutes for stones. If used in combination with stones, it is usually called ENZYME STONE WASH.

SAND WASH

Sand washing often uses alkaline and oxidizing additives to give clothes a certain fading effect and a sense of aging after washing. If paired with a stone mill, the surface of the washed fabric will produce a soft frost white fuzz. Adding some softeners can make the washed fabric soft and soft, thereby improving wearing comfort.

6.The production and processing process of 6 denim fabrics

Ring spun denim fabric

Ring spun yarn is a type of cotton yarn, which is divided into air flow spinning (OE) and ring spun (R). Ring spun denim fabric refers to the yarn spun with ring spinning, which is generally more expensive than air flow spinning. Ring spinning has improved the shortcomings of short spinning length, low production efficiency, and many knots in coarse count yarn. Ring spinning denim fabric has better hand feel and drape than air flow yarn, and after washing processing, it will have a bamboo like style, making it have stronger development momentum.

Warp and weft bamboo joint denim fabric

A yarn with the same thickness from top to bottom is called a light yarn, while a regular pattern of coarse and fine yarn is called a bamboo knot yarn, which can be divided into long and short bamboo knots. Some denim fabrics may also look like bamboo knots on the surface, but the coarse and fine yarn. Another thing is that the fabric woven from ring spinning will also look like bamboo knots.

Super indigo dyed denim fabric

In the past, indigo washing intentionally made the indigo dye have a shallow degree of penetration into the fibers. This way, when denim clothing is ground and processed, the extremely thin layer of dye on the surface of the yarn is removed, revealing more white yarn cores, causing the color to quickly fade, achieving the effect of immediate fading after a short period of grinding. Contrary to the previous indigo washing process, it requires a particularly good degree of dye penetration in order to achieve a deep and bright color for denim clothing after grinding and washing.

Colored denim fabric

The so-called color matching denim fabric is based on ordinary fabrics, after being desized and washed, and then dyed again with reactive dyes. Due to the fact that the original warp yarn was blue, while the weft yarn was white without dyeing, the effect produced between the warp and weft yarns after re dyeing is different, resulting in a special dual color effect. After this process is used to make clothes, there are more color schemes, and there are fewer fabric color schemes. Due to the complexity of the secondary process, the cost is also relatively high.

Colored denim fabric

What color denim is because there is only one blue color in the indigo dye spectrum when dyeing denim, so in order to obtain colors other than blue, other dyes must be used for dyeing. Usually, active sulfur reducing dyes are used for dyeing, so it is called mixed color denim, also known as colored denim.